Is It Still a Man’s World? : The Tapestry of British Heritage Brands
In the enchanting world of fashion, where creativity knows no bounds, the narrative of British heritage brands holds a special allure. These storied labels, steeped in tradition and innovation, often trace their origins back to the visionary minds of remarkable individuals, evoking images of classic elegance, impeccable tailoring, and timeless style. However, behind the illustrious façade of these renowned fashion houses lies a complex narrative concerning representation and opportunity for women.
Historically, British heritage brands have been predominantly led and defined by men, despite women playing a crucial role in the curation and maintenance of clothing. Women often worked in factories and were expected to make and take care of clothing in factories or at home, but were never allowed to own their own business. This is hardly surprising to hear, since even today, Elle UK released an article questioning why there are so few female creative directors. From iconic houses like Burberry and Paul Smith to Savile Row tailors such as Gieves & Hawkes, the narrative of British fashion has largely been shaped by male designers, tailors, and executives. It’s through this traditional hierarchy that we witness women marginalised within these establishments, with limited avenues for advancement and recognition.
And whilst we have seen the landscape slowly shifting, there is still a long way to go, especially with working class designers who do not have accessible funding, networks, or other resources to help support them with their businesses.
NOWLAN, Studio Inspiration 24'
Having said that, in recent years, there has been a notable effort to challenge the status quo and foster greater inclusivity within British heritage brands. Female designers such as Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Holland Cooper, and Vivienne Westwood have risen to prominence, challenging industry norms and redefining the notion of British luxury. Their innovative designs and forward-thinking approaches have breathed new life into traditional houses, attracting a diverse clientele and revitalising established brands. Despite these strides, the journey towards gender equality within British heritage brands is far from over as women continue to face obstacles in breaking into leadership roles and gaining equal representation within these institutions.
Nevertheless, there are signs of progress. Initiatives such as mentorship programs, diversity quotas, and inclusive hiring practices are helping to dismantle barriers and create pathways for women to thrive within British heritage brands and beyond. By championing female voices and nurturing talent from diverse backgrounds, these initiatives are not only fostering innovation but also ensuring the longevity and relevance of these iconic fashion houses in an ever-evolving industry. Even as consumers, although we may feel helpless in our ability to contribute positively towards the fashion industry, we actually play a pivotal role in driving change. By supporting brands that prioritise diversity and inclusion, we can collectively advocate for a more equitable and representative fashion landscape.
One of these trailblazers for change in this sector is NOWLAN by Niamh Nowlan.
When I started NOWLAN, I knew there had to be this feminist voice that I have always been so passionate about. Growing up with a very independent, strong mother, it was only natural that I subsequently gained these qualities. I always remember my mum telling me about my great grandmother, the lady who I inherit my middle name from. She owned her own haberdashery in a time where women were expected to stay at home, cook, clean, and look after the children. Later, my granny owned her own small chain of clothing boutiques and then went on to own a guesthouse, and now my mum also owns her own guesthouse. This lineage of entrepreneurial, resilient women has always inspired me, and I now appreciate how important this has been in my life. I am passionate about sharing this with others by creating our NOWLAN community.
Growing up in a small town, a 10-minute drive from the Cotswolds, I was often around green rolling hills and muddy fields, with these colours woven into iconic countryside tweeds and checks. This very classic Barbour look I saw often has since influenced my design style for NOWLAN. I wanted to champion this heritage of British excellence, but I had to do it my own way! I decided to clash this very traditional style with 70s rock and roll, punk style. The 70s music scene was a major time of change in the UK, with a new youth culture rising from the underground, and this decade became known for anarchy and rebellion. My love for this 70s music scene came from my dad, who spent his 20s living in this iconic music era. Living near London, he would often visit these buzzing music venues and immerse himself in this wild music. I now too have a shared love for this music, from Stevie Nicks and Janis Joplin to Pink Floyd. Since delving deeper into this time, it is clear this new generation was looking for change or rather, demanding it. The British Women’s Liberation Movement was formed, donning a ‘second wave’ of feminism, with women taking to the streets demanding equal rights, equal pay, and free contraception and abortions, to name a few. This spirit and activism I draw from and has become a key pillar in everything we do at NOWLAN.
NOWLAN, Debut Collection, 24'
NOWLAN is an accumulation of these influences, from traditional British heritage to 70s rock and roll and of course this feminist voice that is so dear to me. Using traditional British woollen mills was key for me to champion this sadly dying craft, and for NOWLAN’s debut collection, we will be using Harris Tweed®. This iconic Scottish-based woollen mill has kindly supplied deadstock Harris Tweed® fabric for this collection, to breathe new life into the fabric.
Becoming a ‘British heritage brand’ is not only about the quality or the craftsmanship of the product but also about the lineage that you create. When researching heritage fashion brands my eyes were opened to the fact that they were heavily founded by men. This speaks to the time, but still today many of the higher positions in the fashion industry are held by men. Through creating NOWLAN as a young designer I hold a unique position to change the status quo and create change within the luxury fashion industry, by empowering women through clothing, brand identity, and within our company culture as a whole.
NOWLAN, Debut Collection, 24'
On the 20th of June, we launch the inaugural collection, showcasing a new era for British heritage fashion. We redefine British heritage luxury fashion to create a community of empowered women, we are NOWLAN. So, while we’ve seen a gradual shift in highlighting women’s involvement in British Heritage Brands, fashion as a whole still largely neglects to give female designers credit where and when it’s due, despite them being the largest consumers of fashion and innovators of the industry. Still today females demand to be heard in such a male-dominated landscape. In an equality-driven world, I fear we will never see the changes in this generation but it’s a start, a start of a long but worthwhile transformation, a social shift to more female representation within the fashion industry. With the emergence of young British Heritage Brands such as NOWLAN we see hope for future representation of women within this industry. We must continue to support and champion women within these fields to pave the way forward for generations to come.
-Megan Shears, Contributing Editor DOLLHOUSE DIARIES
-Niamh Nowlan, Principal Designer for NOWLAN
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